Winter Maintenance Project on the NT

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i) loosen upper triple clamp
ii) loosen fork caps
iii) loosen lower triple clamp
vi) remove fork tube...
Let me add the work is not difficult. However, there are many specific or special tools that would be required. The average Shade-Tree Weekend Mechanic might have all these specific tools required for the job to do it themselves.

I covered all these details in a thread that I started a while back.
Fork Rebuilding - Brillot2000
 
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Sunny

Sunny

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Just came back from dealership:

Fork oil , seal etc replace: $550
Coolant Flush: $150


looks like fork rebuild is in my future ... not an immediate one though ... baby steps grasshopper, baby steps....
 
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Just came back from dealership:

Fork oil , seal etc replace: $550
Coolant Flush: $150


looks like fork rebuild is in my future ... not an immediate one though ... baby steps grasshopper, baby steps....
Do the seals need replacing? if they aren't passing and the stanchion isn't pitted then I wouldn't bother changing the seals.
 
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i) loosen upper triple clamp
ii) loosen fork caps
iii) loosen lower triple clamp
vi) remove fork tube...
Not really certain what you are saying here apart from here in the UK the Yoke and the Triple clamp are the same bit of kit.
I would always go with slacking off the top fork caps first leaving the yoke clamps to last thus you have the max amount of grip on the fork leg.
 

ST1100Y

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I would always go with slacking off the top fork caps first leaving the yoke clamps to last thus you have the max amount of grip on the fork leg.
The steps weren't clear in your original post
... slacken off the top for caps, then loosen the yoke bolts ...
as you (almost) can't loosen the fork caps with the upper yoke/triple/whatever still tight...
 
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The steps weren't clear in your original post

as you (almost) can't loosen the fork caps with the upper yoke/triple/whatever still tight...
I never intended that the steps I gave were a text book method, just a summary of how easy the steps were, I apologise to anyone who took them as this is the only way.
Regarding the fork caps, personally I have never had a problem in all my years of bike maintenance in slackening them off before releasing anything else looking back that is over 50 yrs and I've long forgotten how many bikes I have stripped down and rebuilt.
I learnt my lesson when at 16yrs of age and servicing the forks and headstock on my BSA 500cc A7, I dropped the forks from the frame removed the fork stanchions and was then faced with the problem of undoing the fork caps, I looked at my fathers big bench vice but realised I would do more damage to the chrome fork leg holding it in those jaws, so I had to reassemble the forks to remove the caps.
Since that day first job has always been slacken fork caps first.
 

DirtFlier

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One point about fork caps on Honda motorcycles is they don't have to be super-tight. I've never used a torque wrench on them and typically tighten them using a long handled 3/8" drive spark plug ratchet - tightened just one, firm tug. And I certainly steer well clear of using super-long 1/2" drive breaker bars that can easily tighten them to excess!

The cap nut is sealed with an O-ring and the large diameter offers plenty of surface for thread area. I've never heard of one coming loose although I've heard of plenty of instances where the nut was installed by Superman so they were difficult to remove without destroying the cap. :-(
 

ST1100Y

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I never intended that the steps I gave were a text book method...
I'm extra careful on open forums, some "mechanically challenged" lurk/read only and might draw wrong conclusions...
And over at "the other pub" we did have cases where folks actually destroyed fork caps with a pneumatic impact wrench...
 
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I'm extra careful on open forums, some "mechanically challenged" lurk/read only and might draw wrong conclusions...
And over at "the other pub" we did have cases where folks actually destroyed fork caps with a pneumatic impact wrench...
Good point, there is no cure for stupidity...🤔
 

DirtFlier

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I was working in my garage tonight on another project and just for grins looked up the fork cap torque in the NT700V service manual. It was only 16 ft-lbs which for something with a 36 mm thread OD is almost nothing.
 
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parts in the email ... :biggrin:
 
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Engine oil and Transmission oil changed :)

Rear Brake Bulbs changed to LEDs :)

Air filter, Riser, Trans-alp Clutch Cable Swap, LED Driving Lights, Brake flush for another winter day ... parts are there , energy no :)
 

mikesim

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Out of curiosity, did you remove the right side middle cowl to replace the clutch cable?

Mike
 

DirtFlier

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I recently switched back to the standard NT clutch cable when I fitted a EZ-clutch device to my bike. It adds 5" to clutch cable length so I didn't need the 2" extra provided by the Trans-Alp cable.

Mike - to answer your question, I just removed or loosened some of the right middle cowl bolts so I could get under it to swap the cables. It was pretty simple. By the way, I taped the beginning of the standard cable to end the Trans-Alp cable, pulled it free from above, then made the connections. That way, the clutch cable is in the original routing path.
 
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I wrote the below on coolant, earlier this year. I hope that it is of use. We are all different and 50 years ago, I decided that I would do my own spannering and saved a fortune. If you think that you will need something three times, it may be worth learning to do it yourself. Also, it does not matter how much you pay, it is difficult to find someone to do the job properly.

COOLANT

Do not mix antifreezes. Not just types but even different formulas from the same manufacturer. In addition to not freezing, antifreeze is made to combat corrosion. Manufacturers use different chemicals and recipes. If mixed, some chemicals cancel each other out. The result is reduced protection.

The Deauville engine has been around for more than 30 years. The specified coolant is ‘high quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing corrosion protection inhibitors’ with the instruction to ‘replace every 2 years, or at the indicated odometer intervals [24,000 miles], whichever comes first’ together with the warning ‘Using coolant with silicate corrosion inhibitors may cause premature wear of water pump seals or blockage of radiator passages. Using tap water may cause engine damage.’

Things change and usually improve. I consider replacing the coolant with a modern one, as they appear to be more stable. The figures of 100,000 miles and ten years are bandied around.

The shelf life of my chosen brew is five years and I buy five litres. The total capacity of the NT700 is 2.28 litres.

Comma Super Longlife Red Antifreeze & Coolant - Ready To Use - 5 Litre

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Comma-Super-Longlife-Red-Antifreeze-Coolant-Ready-To-Use-5-Litre/184480640043

https://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/file/fa6d4abcc12f45c5f882ad60d6da267c

Do buy the ‘ready to use’ type, as it is already diluted with the most compatible water.

The system is repeatedly flushed with tap water until it runs clear, followed by condensate from my clothes drier. It took a lot of water. After at least 1,000 miles, I intend to change the fluid again. The idea being that by then, anything foreign will be neutralised and corrosion protection will be bolstered. It will be a simple drain and refill with no flush. In any case, the coolant will just go off in the container.

Do not run the engine without coolant, or at least water. For sealing the input shaft, the pump uses ceramic seals, also known as mechanical seals, and they are reliant on liquid for cooling. I bought a second hand engine, which I started dry just to see if it would run before I did more work. Ten seconds was enough to overheat and crack the ceramics.

Go to YouTube and search for ‘annealing a copper washer.’ You do not want to lose that new coolant.

Hopefully, there will be nothing to report other than good running and the next change in 2026.

References are specific to the NT700.

 
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1Q) The manual says that NT will take 2.8L of engine oil if the oil filter is also replaced.

I have 3 bottles of 945ml oil, so fill 3 bottles is 2.835L, i am assuming an extra 35ml of oil should not cause any issues.. thoughts ...

i hate to throw away oil due to the environmental pollution angle...



ALSO: keep the bike on center stand when draining the engine oil. I did it on the side stand (assuming the tilt would drain out more oil), but when I put on center stand couple of more ml of oil dripped out.

But, for the transmission fluid, the side stand it better to drain, as when I put on side stand few more ml of fluid came out. Filling should be on center stand.
 

mikesim

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I recently switched back to the standard NT clutch cable when I fitted a EZ-clutch device to my bike. It adds 5" to clutch cable length so I didn't need the 2" extra provided by the Trans-Alp cable.

Mike - to answer your question, I just removed or loosened some of the right middle cowl bolts so I could get under it to swap the cables. It was pretty simple. By the way, I taped the beginning of the standard cable to end the Trans-Alp cable, pulled it free from above, then made the connections. That way, the clutch cable is in the original routing path.
Tosh, I thought about trying to "sneak" the new cable in without removing the right mid cowl but since my manual dexterity ain't what it used to be. I went ahead and removed it entirely. I too taped the new cable to the old one and pulled it from above. I was concerned at first that it would get hung up on something on the way up but it pulled right through.

Mike
 
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