To lube the splines with Molycote 77. Various posting strongly suggest this along with maintenance manuals.
Axamax... thanks for the warning. The torque setting for the lower shock absorber bolt and nut is 44 Nm. I updated my original post to show the correct torque settings (from the Haynes manual) for that shock bolt and nut, and also for the axle nut and brake caliper stay bolt.I would like to warn members that I had the lower shock absorber bolt shear whilst riding the bike (2008 NT700)
when it had about 35,000 miles on it. It had never been disturbed. I was lucky that I had gone into a local ex-Honda shop for tyres and the mechanic spotted the shiny part of the bolt. An engineer friend said it had either been overtightened at the factory or the thread cut too deep.
That's for sure, I had so much trouble with it that I ended up removing the driveshaft from the final drive to get it to mate up to the U-joint. The spines are very close fit. You can rejoin the driveshaft with the input of the final drive easy enough.Russ, to assemble the final drive correctly you've gotta hold your tongue just right. You probably missed that part in the service manual.
Mike
Good point brought up here, put the moly on both the driven flange and the ring gear splines. After having to replace the final drive on my NT at my own expense, due to a service error causing rusty/worn splines, I pay particular attention here. Not interested in buying another one. You can clean the old moly off the ring gear with q-tips. I always replace the 3 o-rings back there, and the thrust washer that's underneath the driven flange.3. He likes to apply grease more on ring gear than splines and moves ring gear to make shaft snap into place.
From the picture it appears the outer pad is twisted slightly and catching the edge of the rotor, try pushing the caliper pistons in a bit more.Hi Guys, greetings from the UK. Took the rear wheel out of my NT700VA-8 recently and got my shock rebuilt (no damping). I didn't have a problem refitting the wheel on the previous occasion but this time I am stuck as I cannot get the hole in the caliper to fully line up and allow the axle through. As you can see in the photo either the caliper needs to move down a bit or the wheel nees to come up a bit. I've tried levering under wheel with plank and also pushing down on top of caliper but still can't line it up enough to get axle through . Anyone have any tips/tricks ?
Best regards
Mike
Hi thanks for that - its exactly what I was thinking too having looked at the photo , that next attemp it is spead out pads again !From the picture it appears the outer pad is twisted slightly and catching the edge of the rotor, try pushing the caliper pistons in a bit more.
Be sure to pump up those brakes when done.